Installation of a Stan’s Beaver Baffler (SBB)

Okay, you have identified a beaver-human conflict site that involves a plugged culvert or flooding of infrastructure.

A Stan’s Beaver Baffler is recommended for serious consideration because of its advantages described in the How and Why section when compared to the commonly installed flow-pipe and fence devices.


Materials needed for installation are described in the How and Why section and include only 3 readily available items, galvanized livestock panels, steel T-posts, and fence clips or rebar tie-wire. The grid size of the livestock panels used will depend on the fish/wildlife needs for each installation. Materials are the same for both culvert and pond leveler installations.


Tools needed for installation are described in the How and Why section and include only 4 readily available tools, T-post driver, medium 24” bolt cutters, fencing pliers, and a custom wire bender. The tools are the same for both the SBB culvert and pond leveler installations.

Creating a site plan map

Project design will determine the size of the structure and number of panels and T-posts needed. A site map is needed to assist in determining the amount and type of materials needed. The detail of the site map will vary, it can be a detailed computer drawing or a pencil sketch may be adequate, depending on internal needs and external agency requirements.

Example of a site plan map for a 24-foot culvert version of a Stan’s Beaver Baffler

Example of a site plan map for a 24-foot pond leveler version of a Stan’s Beaver Baffler.

What is the material cost for a typical SBB?

Materials needed to install either version of the SBB structure cost between $180 and $300 in July of 2024. This compares to an estimated materials cost of between $800 and $1,600 to install a fence and 20-40 foot 15-inch flow-pipe with remote intake. Labor costs will vary, however a SBB installed in shallow water is consistently less than a flow-pipe device.

Transporting livestock panels


When purchased, livestock panels typically come in 16-foot lengths. Cutting each 16-foot panel into two approximate 8-foot panels, with 2” or 4” prongs created on each panel, will make it easier to transport the panels. The prongs that are created on each shorter panel will be used to securely connect the panels during installation of the Stan’s Beaver Baffler fence.

(Note: To create 2 panels with prongs on each panel it may be necessary to create unequal panels of 8’4” and 7’8” panels from the 16’ panel as a 16’ panel has a vertical wire in the middle of the panel.)

Cutting a16-foot livestock panel into two easier to transport 8-foot panels

Creating a skirt for the fence.


The integral 8”-14” skirt reduces the chance that a beaver will burrow under the fence and attempt to rebuild a dam.


The skirt is created on the bottom of the livestock panel. The bottom two rows of the livestock cattle panel are spaced 4” or 6” apart and the rest of the panel has 6” horizontal spacings. Use a 4-foot piece of 2×4 lumber, or a stout stick from the beaver dam if available, to bend the bottom 2-3 rows of the panel upwards. Insert the 2×4 under the lower 2 wires and above the 3rd wire and pry up creating a 60-70 degree angle, along the entire bottom of the panel as shown below. The skirt is created with less than a 90 degree angle in a manner that when installed a spring effect is created that holds the skirt to the bottom of the pond. The spring effect is created by the installer standing on the skirt while it is being attached to the post.

Note: When installed, the prongs of each panel need to be pointed up stream to connect to the next panel with the skirt on the outside of lane. This requires the creation of panels with ½ having skirts on the right and ½ on the left side when installed and prongs pointed upstream. If all panels are made with prongs on the same end, the prong end can be reversed by removing the outside wire of the non-prong end to create a pronged end.

Create the integral skirt by bending up with 2×4 board or a stout beaver cut limb.
Continue bending along the edge of the panel.
Finished with skirt at 60-70 degree angle.

Installing T-posts


A 5.5-foot metal T-post installed with a driver is obviously many-many times safer than using a ladder and sledgehammer to install wooden posts in a beaver pond.


When driving T-posts into the ground, orient the posts so the protruding post studs are perpendicular to the wire panels and facing outwards. There are many u-tube videos, of various qualities, that can be helpful in describing techniques for using a driver to install T-posts.


Two T-posts are needed for each 8-foot panel. Place T-posts approximately 4-feet apart. The fence does not need to be in a straight line and minor curves or meanders will not adversely impact the Stan’s Beaver Baffler’s ability to function properly.


For Culvert- Install first T-post at water edge about 18” away from culvert. Install second T-post for the wing up the bank 6”-12” and 3 ½ feet away from the first T-post. (note: the second T-post at the end of the wing can be a 5’ post as the wing is only 2-feet high.) Install the third T-post upstream about 7 ½ -feet from the first T-post. This will make it easier to connect the 4-foot wing panel to T-post 1 and the 8-foot fence panel to post 3 in a manner that the T-post does not interfere when bending the prongs. The fourth T-post is installed midway between the first and third T-posts. Continue installing T-posts at four-foot intervals upstream, or optionally the first fence panels can be installed prior to installing additional T-posts. Install the upstream T-post #13 after all panels have been installed and connected as it is impossible to know exactly where the two sides will meet at the point until all panels are connected together.

For Dam Notch- Installation is similar to culvert, except no wing is created. The first T-post is installed at the water edge on the upstream side of the dam notch and the second T-post is installed 3 ½ feet from the first on the downstream side of the dam notch. The third and fourth T-posts are installed similar to the culvert installation. Install upper point T-post #13 last after all panels have been connected.

Use foot to push on T-post blade while driving post to correct post alignment if it rotates.

Connect panels together


Each panel will have an end with a series of 2-4-inch prongs that was created when the original 16-foot livestock panel was cut to create two eight-foot panels. The panel end with the prongs is oriented upstream when attached to the T-posts with skirt on the outside edge of the lane fence.


Connect the second panel to the first panel by overlapping the prongs of the first panel with the downstream edge of the second panel. Then using the wire bender tool to twist the prongs of the first panel snugly around the second panel vertical wire. A very strong connection is made wrapping the prongs around the adjacent panel. There is no need to overlap the panels or use hog rings to connect panels.

Prongs are overlapped with next panel.
Prong bender is used to wrap prongs from one panel around a verticle wire on an adacent panel, making a tight connection.
Bend prong around adjacent panel vertical wire.
Completed twisted connection

Attach panels to T-posts


It is important to make a good fit of the fence panel to the floor of the pond as beavers occasionally will work their way under the fence if there is a gap to start with. Burrowing under the fence is less likely if the integral skirt is tight to the pond bottom. Any large rock or log may require using bolt cutters to make a notch in the fence and skirt to create a good fit.


The skirt may need to be cut with the bolt cutters where panels need to be bent to change directions even slightly. Each 8-foot panel will be attached to two, or sometimes three, T-posts.


When the panel is initially placed against the T-post the bend that creates the integral skirt will be 2-3” off of the pond floor due to the spring effect of the 60-degree angle. This is intentional as the skirt being at a 60-degree angle will create the spring effect when stepped on and pushed to the pond floor when connecting panel to the T-post.

Showing the skirt off the pond bottom prior to stepping on it.

Step on skirt adjacent to the T-post to make a tight fit to the pond bottom when attaching a panel to T-post. This will result in a tight spring loaded fit to the bottom of the pond.
Attach the panel to each post using 3-4 fence clips or ties.

Panels are commonly attached to the T-posts utilizing one of three methods:

  • fence clips,
  • tie-wire,
  • rebar wire-ties

Do not use zip-ties as they will deteriorate in 2-3 years, sometimes earlier.

Each of the three most common attachment methods are similar but have some different benefits and shortcomings.

Using rebar tie-wire to attach fence panel to T-post


Attaching panels using standard 16-gauge rebar tie-wire is probably the most common technique used to attach fence panels to T-posts. The wire is readily available, inexpensive, and easy to cut to desired lengths. Attaching a panel to the T-post is done by cutting a 6-8” length of tie-wire and then wrapping the wire around both the panel and T-post. This can be done by hand. Fencing pliers will make a tighter connection that is firm.


Advantages include that rebar tie-wire is readily available and inexpensive. No special tools are needed.


Potential problems are the wire is not as durable as fence clips. An additional disadvantage is that the process is often slower than fence clips.


Cost about 2 cents each tie and no special equipment is needed.

Step on skirt then wrap rebar wire loosely around panel horizontal wire and T-post.

Use fencing pliers or hand twist wire to tighten panel to the T-post.

Finished twisted tie-wire.

Using fence clips to attach fence panel to T-post


Fence clips are much stronger and more durable than rebar tie wire. The basic strategy is to attach one end of fence clip to a horizontal panel wire, then pull the clip around the post and attach the other end of the clip to the wire on the other side of the post. Finally twist the clip ends around the horizontal fence wire to secure the clip. Fence pliers are needed to tighten the clip onto the wire.


Advantages include Fence clips are readily available and provide the strongest attachment.


Potential problems Heavy 4 or 6 gauge galvanized livestock panels are stiff and not at all flexible. The standard T-post fence clip is designed to attach barbed wire or smaller 10-12 gauge fence wire to a T-post that is oriented flat to the wire. If the T-post is twisted, then 2 clips may need to be spliced together to wrap the clip around the post and attached to the heavy gauge livestock panel wire on both sides of the post. Fencing pliers are needed to firmly attach the clip.


Cost about 10 cents for each clip. Some stores include 3-4 fence clips at no additional cost with each T-post sold.

Step on skirt and hook clip over horizontal wire then around post

Attach second side of clip to other side of wire

Use fencing pliers to clinch clip to the horizontal wire

Using fence/rebar wire-ties to attach fence panel to T-post


16 gauge Wire-ties can be purchased that are already cut to 6” lengths with loops created on each end. These ties have a pvc covering which protects them from rusting. Fencing pliers are utilized to create a snug twisted wire connection.


Advantages include that a high-quality twisted wire connection is consistently created. The pvc coating helps prevent corrosion of the wire used to attach the panel to the T-post.


Potential problems Fencing pliers are needed to get a good twist. A minimum of 1,000 rebar wire-ties for $30 is required.


Cost about 3 cents for each wire-tie.

Step on skirt and hold wire tie around the post

Grab the ends of the tie loops with the fence pliers

Twist the tie until tight and snug. Over twisting can break the tie.

Scroll to Top